if you've been resisting jumping into the lambrusco pool, let this be the summer you finally dive in. The puffs make happy companions to rosés with decent acid and sparklers, and, best of all, with the bar's lambrusco - dry and refreshing and an almost purple dark red hue. They come showered with finely grated Parmesan threads and a rather thick fondue for dipping, neither of which they need. Fried for a crust that yields with a satisfying crunch to a soft, rich, cheesy interior, the ping pong ball-size fritters satisfy in an elemental way. The puffs will arrive soon after you've started in on a glass. The crispy nuggets will go with about any pour on Joe Fiely's carefully considered, Italian-focused (though not exclusively) list. Just put in your order right when you sit down, before you even pick a wine. Reporters visit restaurants unannounced, and meals are paid for by RedEye.Whether a couple quick glasses and a bite or a full-on dinner, any session at Joe's Imports, the Fulton Market wine bar, should start with the Parmesan puffs. If they up their game, this restaurant could eventually become a classic. However-and this is surprising as they rarely falter-the Lettuce crew is not proving an equal partner in service at Ema.
EMA RIVER NORTH LETTUCE ENTERTAIN YOU TV
I yearned for a jar of honey to make the whole thing more edible.īottom line: You rarely see Jacobson's name without mention of his appearance on "Top Chef." It's a bit of a disservice because he's way more than a TV chef. Filo shards mixed with pistachio nut stuffing and dried fruit were dry. Deconstructed baklava ($6.95) looked like regular baklava that had been smashed with a sledgehammer. Both were silkier and superior to what I had at Honey's.
Gutierrez's take ($9.95) offers two plays on the dessert: one made with chia seeds and another infused with chocolate and chili that's served with candied pistachios. You may remember that I was gaga over the version served at Honey's a few weeks ago. I never thought I'd write this, but it seems halva is having a moment. What I didn't appreciate was that our server assumed my friend wanted the same wine and brought out a second unbidden glass.ĭessert from pastry chef Yasmin Gutierrez was a mixed bag. I settled on the 2014 Domaine Spiropoulos Mantinia Moschofilero ($11) with notes of honey, grapefruit and mineral flavor. I did appreciate that when I couldn't decide between two wines, our server brought out samples of each for me to try. The service staff also tried to remove plates I was still working on several times throughout the meal.
A saucer of lettuce vinaigrette-pureed butter lettuce, tarragon, basil, parsley and preserved lemon-lightened the load.Īs much as I enjoyed Jacobson's food, our meal was interrupted twice by food runners trying to drop off plates meant for other tables. Though more of a cold-weather dish, I couldn't resist ordering the braised lamb shoulder ($24.95) topped with Super Ball-sized cherries and caramel-like dates. I shot my dining companion a dirty look when I realized she'd eaten more than her fair share of the tender tentacles and there were none left. Grilled octopus ($14.95), which was flanked by fried sheets of kale and rippling crispy-skinned fingerling potatoes dripping with a velvety lemon vinaigrette, was as addictive as a perfect batch of French fries.
0 kommentar(er)
